CHALLENGES AND SOLUTIONS OF SUSTAINABLE APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

Abstract

This paper reports on a case study of the product development experience of an apparel firm‟s sustainable sweater program. The three-fold purpose of this study is to document current challenges the firm experienced, discover product development strategies that were implemented in fulfilling its sustainable business goals, and determine the principles guiding the design team and its interaction within the upstream supply chain. The case company is Eileen Fisher, a brand name international women‟s fashion apparel firm which is committed to social and environmental initiatives. Data were collected from thirteen in-depth interviews conducted with members of the case company and its vendors. Secondary data analysis from the case company‟s website and archival records provided supplementary information. The qualitative data were analyzed with the use of NVivo9 software. The study identified five challenges encountered by the Eileen Fisher design team in developing its organic and fair-trade cotton sweater program which include concerns with perceived value, process timing, quality standards, supplier capacity, and price. Corresponding solutions that were put into place include heightening creativity and innovation, optimizing timing and resources, interfacing hands-on “upstream”, managing relationships responsibly and for the long term, and making trade-offs based on cost and values. Furthermore, the study identified five principles which guided the design team and its interaction within the upstream supply chain for sustainable design practices; they are the prerequisite of a company mandate, match of core values, gathering and diffusion of information, cross-functional organization to support sustainability initiatives, and the significance of the supply chain arrangement. This study hopes to provide guidance for apparel manufacturers and suppliers for surmounting the challenges facing product development of sustainable apparel products.